David’s October 2011 Travels

November is with us. But rather than letting you loose on a whole load of crappy personal propaganda as to what I expect this forthcoming month, let me let loose on a little bit of — touristic ego

I love to travel: I’ve done 19 countries, territories and regions so far (the Macao SAR was No. 19). My current Swiss passport is a true “Chinese unifier”: it has, on two separate pages, stamps from the mainland, Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan. It’s amazing. China has, as a lot of people who’ve seen the pages remark, been effectively unified by me. “Emperor David Feng a la Qin Shihuang,” some might even think…

That — never. I swear. If I led this unified nation I’d totally stink it up. My PhD candidacy is in media, not politics, and I am more known for my train shtick than any kind of academese you can (or cannot) make sense of… The current “system”, while far from being perfect, at least isn’t starving 1.3 billion alive…

Anyway… here’s me and the whole of Greater China. As of late October 2011…

I admit I should have met Tracy a bit earlier, when she was in Tibet on assignment for her TV “thing” there. She worked with the regional TV station (controlled by Beijing, of course) for a full month last year…

But I’m happy to have “unified”, in the words of some folks, the whole of Greater China with my iPhone.

Home base for me: Beijing. I’ve still a bit to do but I think I’ve basically nailed it.

The new “home”, of sorts, during my Chinglish teaching assignment: Harbin. Note that I live near Songbei (north of that squiggly Songhua River), but I often head south to central Harbin — if only for the Costa there… about 20 minutes in good traffic…

I do a lot of geotagged photos, so yep, I’ve been all over the place. And I find that to be kind of neat. You leave your own digital footprint without painting a bridge (or a temple) with your name (risking the cane in Singapore, for example)…

City Attitudes a la Starbucks Version

Like Jian Shuo Wang, who’s been to a great number of Starbucks in Shanghai, I’ve been to a fair number of cities with Starbucks in them. In the order that I went to first (I’m trying to remember this off by heart), they are…

  1. Beijing, China
  2. San Francisco, United States
  3. Zürich, Switzerland
  4. London, United Kingdom
  5. Tianjin, China
  6. Shanghai, China
  7. Guangzhou, China
  8. Shenzhen, China
  9. Hong Kong
  10. Taipei, Taiwan
  11. Kaohsiung, Taiwan
  12. Qingdao, China
  13. Chengdu, China
  14. Nanjing, China
  15. Ji’nan, China
  16. Zhuhai, China
  17. Macao
  18. Suzhou, China

(A little note: these are all arranged by country, region or territory — for example, Hong Kong is listed on its own as it’s an SAR. The entry “China” refers solely to the mainland.)

From those that I remember, here’s what the service I’ve gotten in each city reminds me of:

  • Beijing, China: Capital arrogance. The only city that, in slang-ese, “bitched” (so-called) me. I have had some pretty clueless and even the rare arrogant barista here. But since this is “home base” for me, I’ll have to take that…
  • San Francisco, United States: Indifferent. You would have expected a “fuller American experience” in San Fran, in America. Thing is, nope. Either it was my croissant-plus-tea, or it might have been something else…
  • Zürich, Switzerland: Near-zip wifi. In this day and age of the Internet, getting a “mere” 30 minutes for free meant basically nothing.
  • London, United Kingdom: Work-for-breakfast. The era of David Feng breakfasts at the Starbucks became permanent in London, when I failed to locate my bed-and-breakfast’s “feeding hall”, as I’d call it. No idea how I pulled it off without the iPhone. Best described in Chinese as the typical case of the “blind cat banging into a dead rat” (瞎貓碰上死耗子).
  • Tianjin, China: No Tianjinese. There’s enmity between soccer fans of Tianjin and Beijing, and Tianjin “gets its back on Beijing” by adopting its local lingo, Tianjinese, where all the spoken tones get shaken, stirred and mixed right out of order.
  • Shanghai, China: Incredibly friendly. The Shanghainese are supposedly “domestic-racist” so-called because they only have an eye out for themselves and detest the rest of the PRC populace. Either that, or that was a terribly terse and lopsided point of view. In reality, the baristas in Shanghai went out of their way to be extraordinarily accommodating. My views on Shanghainese people flipped 180° after being treated with respect by a barista near Nanjing East Road.
  • Guangzhou, China: Rushed. Either that, or I myself was in a rush. My most fond memories remain those of the Starbucks right inside Guangzhou’s East Railway Station. The best mix between efficiency and relaxation.
  • Shenzhen, China: Blah. No, it wasn’t the baristas: It was just a case of indifference. Shenzhen is a modern city sans the culture (paling in comparison to culture-rich Zhuhai, on the border with Macao). No barista was exceptionally nice or nasty, but it didn’t make itself a better aspect of a culture-bland city.
  • Kaohsiung, Taiwan: Cosmopolitan. I was on the upper floor of Kaohsiung Starbucks by the Kaohsiung Arena, after taking a quick Subway lunch. (I stick to a pretty boring “predefined” diet that’s the same anywhere on the planet because the idea of food poisoning due to new and alien cuisine just didn’t tick with me.) On a Mac note, this was the first store where I used iPhoto’s Maps feature, which tagged geotagged pictures.
  • Taipei, Taiwan: Tea! I was totally unaware of the new menu choice, which included Chinese tea, until the Taipei Starbucks just “hit” me, boom, like that — with good tea.
  • Qingdao, China: Late night relief. I was pretty happy to hit the Starbucks in Qingdao after a day’s rail-station-tripping with @blcsfo in November 2010. I did all the driving, so the Bi Luo Chun tea (I think) soothed my nerves.
  • Chengdu, China: Few and far between. We (me and @sg_panda) didn’t go to the one by the showcase Tianfu Square, but to a one closer to my hotel. Except for that it was a tad late and I was waiting on a message from my then-girlfriend (now-wife) Tracy, the Chengdu experience was pretty good.
  • Hong Kong: It was for the Starbucks card. I did a play of cards by using my Octopus card to buy a Starbucks card, which basically rendered either or both cards useless. Now the Starbucks card is a mere souvenir: it’s much easier, the way I see it, to grab a tea with an Octopus card.
  • Nanjing, China: Very 1912. I was a little taken back to see a Costa Coffee and a Starbucks next to each other at the part of Nanjing known simply as “1912″ (right next to the former Presidential Palace). I also missed buying a mug (instead I went for a tumbler, until I was told the glass they used in it had issues).
  • Ji’nan, China: Relaxing. When Tracy and I stepped off the G1 HSR train from Beijing South on a historical first journey (complete with loads of interviews on the train), we headed straight for the Starbucks. After somewhat failing to find it on the first shot, we eventually found it in a part of town that was pretty much bustling with biz-and-econ life.
  • Zhuhai, China: Relaxing (again). Tracy and I found this right by the Haibin Park (thanks to Google Maps on the iPhone). A tad disappointing there wasn’t a Zhuhai mug, but still a good place to relax before we hit the Gongbei border check to head to Macao.
  • Macao: Extremely personable. They remembered my surname (from my credit card) and addressed me as “Mr Feng”, something that I did not expect. It came as one of the most positive surprises and it felt that I was treated like either God, or something pretty close to it. They win in terms of the Best Starbucks. When you treat a person right (like that), you gain yourselves an extremely loyal consumer.
  • Suzhou, China: Hidden but courteous. I have to say, the one by Metro City Suzhou is so covert that I spent 15 minutes in the rain just finding it Still, thankfully, we found it. The staff there were courteous and struck up a fair brief but friendly chatter.

Coming up soon: Starbucks in Harbin, Changchun (perhaps), Shijiazhuang, Kunming, Shenyang and Dalian…

Macao: Upping My Travel List to 19…

…19 countries, regions or territories visited.

It started when I left Beijing for Switzerland in December 1988, and it continued ever since: I’ve been in Germany since 1989 (although always on very short trips, more often than not cross-border trips from Koblenz to Waldshut), and as of late, I’ve just done something pretty big: I’ve just finished all of Greater China. The visit to Macao has meant that I’ve been to mainland China, Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan.

Macao is OK — I just find the excessive abundance of casinos not to be my cup of tea, as it doesn’t match my “moral principles”. Nevertheless, on this issue, I’ll let it settle as per the stance of “each to his or her own”, and move on…

Macao has also been my first place of contact with the Portuguese language, and I think I’ve started off on the right foot. I started by translating the Portuguese part of a public service sign into Chinese (while letting my wife Tracy hide the Chinese part from my view). She says I got about 80% of it right. I’m happy…

I have to say, the highlight of this visit was the Starbucks. They remembered my name and treated us really well. Their Mandarin Chinese is pretty good. Now the only things missing are a lack of mosquitoes and my favourite Bi Luo Chun tea…